The praise of silence

“Silence is praise to You” – Psalm 65:2

The next morning we set out again to the road. We decided not to prolong our stay in Oaxaca and to continue towards the coast.

Heading out towards the mountains

Heading out towards the mountains

Having before us two options to the coast, we opted for the less direct route but one which is easier on the engine, the option with less ups and downs. Nonetheless if you are travelling on Mexico’s West Coast there is no escaping the mountains.

So we headed south-west towards the coastal city of Salina Cruz.

But first we had planned a stop in a small spot along the way. A place called Hierve el Agua (Water boils) located among the mountains of Oaxaca. Here mineral waters come out of the rock and form natural pools. The pools the overflow down a precipice and mineral sediment forms along the walls of the precipice.

Annapurna on the road

Annapurna on the road

We went off the highway and up a small winding road that eventually led us to a small rural village. There we picked up 4 tourists that were on their way to Hierve el Agua. We payed the 25 pesos fee (about 2 dollars US) and soon we were admiring the wonderful scenery that was displayed in front of us.

Hierve el Agua

Hierve el Agua

The wind was lowing and the air was cool. When the water comes out of the spring it comes out warm, but then as is flows on the rocks towards the pool, the cool air of the sierra cools the water, so the water is cold, but it is definitely worth bathing there and enjoying the magnificent view.

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After enjoying for a couple of hours the water pools and the view we went back to the kombi and prepared supper. Afterwards we went walking on the trails in the sierra to observe the sun setting on the valley below. We sat on a rock while the last rays of the sun spread their golden beams across the valley. As we sat there I understood the psalmist when he said “Silence is Praise to You”.

The last of the sun's rays

The last of the sun’s rays

Many thousands of years ago, a Hebrew poet probably sat on a hill overlooking a valley and uttered these words. Words which sometimes in our fast paced lives we cannot grasp until we sit and admire the marvels of the world. To understand the poet, one must be in a similar position, and then the message shines cristal clear. Here we sat and praised the Creator in silence.

The best praise is silence

The best praise is silence

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Soon darkness covered the valley and before long we were witnesses of another spectacle of nature: the starry sky. The vast and black expanse of space above covered by luminous stars too many to count. One is then overwhelmed by a feeling of smallness.

We then retired to our kombi where we huddled under the blankets and kept admiring the shinning stars until our eyelids betrayed us and we soon fell into a deep and repairing sleep.

The next morning we got up before the sunrise and went out again to admire the valley as the sun rose and shone its rays on the valley again. This spectacle was as marvellous as the sunset, and soon we felt the sun’s rays warm our cheeks and chase the cold morning air away.

Sunrise on the valley

Sunrise on the valley

We then had breakfast and prepared ourselves for another day on the road. A new day for us, new challenges, new discoveries, new life renewed every morning.

A new day

A new day

“And if these mountains had eyes, they would wake to find two strangers in their fences, standing in admiration as a breathing red pours its tinge upon earth’s shore. These mountains, which have seen untold sunrises, long to thunder praise but stand reverent, silent so that man’s weak praise should be given God’s attention.”
-Donald Miller

Back to the Open Road

The journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step – Lao Tzu

On a sunny Sunday morning, we got up to pack our VW Kombi. We put the heavy stuff up on the rack, covered it up with a tarp and tied it down.

The feeling in the air was full of emotion. We felt the onset of a new adventure, we were at the doorstep ready to step out into the open road. The family felt the emotion of a departure, of a farewell.

Ready to hit the road

Ready to hit the road

We went on to have breakfast with the whole family before leaving. With high emotion my wife’s family bid her farewell and then we got onto our Kombi, ignited the engine and off we went into the city’s traffic.

Our dreamed route is to leave Mexico city and head south towards the Pacific Coast and then head north along the coastline. Our mode of transportation is Annapurna our 1979 Volkswagen Kombi. We named her after the 10th highest mountain in the world and the first of the 14 eight-thousander to be summited. Thus we named our Kombi after her, because she is to be our first dream to be reached, yet she is not the highest.

Thus we hit the road: open, unmarked and free.

Thus we hit the road: open, unmarked and free.

Thus we hit the road: open, unmarked and free.

We left the city heading towards Puebla. We got stuck in long traffic lines until we reached the hills, then we started up and down winding roads leading towards Puebla. Annapurna’s small 1600cc engine roared up the hills, slowly taking her load forward.

After sundown we reached Puebla where we were kindly hosted by our friends Isaí and Pao.

At Puebla's Ferrywheel

At Puebla’s Ferrywheel

The next morning we headed out to the highway again, this time towards the city of Oaxaca, capital of the state by the same name.

Soon we entered a mountainous region, with lots of hills and winding roads. The mountains were covered with large cactuses resembling trees. We stopped frequently to rest the tired engine.

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Sometime in the afternoon we saw two bikes on the side of the road, two travellers were resting. We pulled over the side of the road and greeted them. They were the Philtrons, a couple that is travelling the continent on their bikes. They left Alaska 7 months ago and are headed south towards Argentina.

With the Philtrons

With the Philtrons

We spent a few minutes chatting and sharing travel stories and then we wished each other luck and parted ways. The traveller is often misunderstood by people, people who are perplexed by that desire to go out and endure difficulties and forgo of the comforts of a home to experience the road. Yet it happens in the travellers path that sometimes he meets others as himself, with their own stories, their own origins and dreams, their own roads. And it is always a pleasure to hear about another traveller’s road stories.

That night we reached Oaxaca. We were unable to make contact with a Couchsurfer so we headed to a supermarket were we parked Annapurna and prepared supper. After which we soon went to sleep, tired with the tiredness of the road. It is a blessed tiredness.

Hitchhiking in Mexico

In November and December of 2013 I undertook a little dream of mine, which is to get to know better my beautiful Mexico. During the course of September and October I took a couple of hitchhiking trips in northern Mexico. Seeing it was indeed very feasible to hitchhike in Mexico in spite of all the violence which plagues the country I decided to go for it.

So on November 8th I packed my tiny backpack and went on my way. I left Torreón, Coahuila and went south. My itinerary was roughly as follows: Zacatecas-Aguascalientes-Queretaro-Mexico City. I was still unsure as to where I would head to after Mexico City, my choices were either Cancun or Oaxaca and Chiapas. As it turns out I ended up going to Oaxaca. So the second part of my trip was Mexico DF-Cuernavaca-Acapulco-Puerto Escondido-Mazunte. My method of travel was improvisation, meaning whatever would get me there the cheapest. So it was mostly hitchhiking with a few instances of paying for a bus (not the regular fare, but the ‘pay the bus driver instead’ fare).

I can say Mexico is one of the most beautiful countries I know (if not the most). With a vast array of varieties in food, landscape, weather and customs as one could find in a whole continent. I traversed deserts, mountains and jungles. Slept in ditches, cozy beds, hammocks and on the beach. Went from cold and rainy to warm tropical weather. Even the culture varies. For me, a northener, the south has different customs and strange foods we do not find up north. I went through some states where the violence is notorious, yet everywhere I went I met nothing but good and kind people. In the areas where there is more violence (according to the news) is where I found the people more eager to help, more quick to lend a hand (or a drink or food). Undoubtedly Mexico is still characterized by its warm and hospitable people. Hear what you may in the news channels, Mexico is still beautiful, Mexico still has its good people, its great food, its magical towns, and world renowed beaches. I found many europeans still willing to trade their modern lives to come and live a quiet life, living at the sea’s rythm.

So here are a few pictures of this amazing trip I had. I hope they inspire others to go out and experience life on the road, and especially to come and visit this magical country of mine called Mexico. Forget the TV, come and get to know it yourselves. Come and meet our villages, our people, our food.

The Year 2013 in review

The year 2013 has been one of my busiest years travelwise so far.

I started the year in Israel, then in the summer I hitchhiked in Turkey, Spain and France. Spent a month in Canada, came down to Mexico and I have basically been hitchhking in Mexico since October, covering from the north all the way down to the state of Oaxaca.
Here are a few pictures of this year’s adventures.